The Nitty Gritty of Exfoliation
Human skin is a remarkable organ, with a single square inch comprising 19 million skin cells. According to research, a person typically sheds around 500 million skin cells each day, with some sources stating less and some more. You may not see the dead, dull skin flaking off your face and body, but it is happening all day long.
Depending on age, it takes about a month for newly formed skin cells to make their way to the surface.
As you age, this process starts to slow and cell turnover can take as long as 6 to 10 weeks for someone in their 60s or 70s. When old skin cells build up, it can result in a rough, dry, flaky, dull complexion.
Fortunately, gentle exfoliation can help accelerate this process clearing the path for glowing, healthy skin.
In this blog, we will delve into the world of exfoliation, covering topics such as:
- What is exfoliation and the science behind it
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The benefits of exfoliation
- Types of exfoliants (including some recipes)
- How to exfoliate (face & body)
- How often to exfoliate
- Do you have to exfoliate
- Our exfoliating products
Get informed about exfoliation! This blog will cover the basics, benefits, and best practices for exfoliating your skin so you can make informed decisions about your skincare.
What Is Exfoliation?
Exfoliation, as defined by Merriam-Webster, means "to shed materials in scales or layers." Our skin naturally exfoliates itself, constantly shedding and renewing its cells every minute! This process of skin cell turnover is called desquamation (from the Latin "desquamare," meaning "to scrape the scales off a fish").
As new skin cells make their way to the surface, older cells will slough away leaving behind fresher, smoother skin.
Unfortunately, anything that interferes with normal skin shedding can result in a build-up of dead skin causing the skin to look dull, dry, and lackluster.
Exfoliation encourages cell turnover, unclogs pores, allows moisturizers to penetrate more effectively and brightens and refreshes the skin. Regardless of your skin type – normal, oily, dry, mature, or sensitive – exfoliation may benefit your complexion.
The Process Of Desquamation: A Science Lesson
Desquamation, or cell turnover, is the natural process through which old cells are shed as new cells develop.
Desquamation specifically refers to the shedding of dead skin cells from the outermost layer of the skin, which is the final stage of the skin cycle.
The entire process, from cell birth to shedding, takes about 14 days for babies and 21 days for teens. Once you hit your 20s your skin generally renews itself about every 30 days.
As you age the shredding process slows down and takes longer and longer.
The process is not only affected by age, but also by environmental pollution, hormones, genetics, disease, diet, and even weather.
Although the exact mechanism that controls the desquamation process is unknown, it takes place in the outermost layer of the skin called the epidermis. Each layer of the epidermis plays a role in the skin cycle (simply described below).
- The skin cycle begins when new skin cells are born in the deepest layer of the epidermis, the stratum basale. These cells divide and begin their journey to the surface of the skin. This stage is responsible for generating new cells that will eventually replace the older ones.
- As new cells are produced, they gradually move upwards to the stratum spinosum layer where they begin to make keratin, the fibrous proteins that create a protective barrier for the skin.
- The skin cells continue to push upward and arrive in the stratum granulosum, where they begin to flatten out, lose their nuclei, and die.
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Stratum lucidum is only present in the thick skin of the palms of the hands and soles of the feet. It is not present in most of the body's skin which is considered "thin skin" and lacks this layer. It is composed of dead, flattened cells.
- Once the cells finally reach the surface layer, the stratum corneum, they serve as a protective barrier against external factors. Over time, these cells gradually shed from the surface of the skin in the process called desquamation. This shedding is a natural exfoliation process that helps to eliminate dead skin cells and maintain a healthy complexion. This is the last stage of the skin cycle.
- Since newer cells continuously push their way to the surface, your skin is constantly renewing itself.
- Throughout their journey to the surface, epidermal cells are “glued” to each other on all sides. As the cells move upward from the deeper layers to the surface the “glue” becomes weaker and weaker which allows the dead cells to slough away.
Why Exfoliate? The Benefits!
Exfoliating the skin helps slough off dead skin cells, stimulates circulation, removes dirt that clogs pores, smooths skin texture, and tone, improves the ability of the skin to absorb moisture, and helps keep normal cell turnover going (especially as we age) to reveal new, fresh skin cells for a healthier, brighter appearance.
The purpose of exfoliation is NOT to get rid of all dead skin cells--we need them! Although the top layer of the epidermis is considered 'dead,' this does not mean it is useless.
These dead skin cells, called corneocytes, adhere tightly to each other to form a protective physical, chemical, and immunological barrier. These cells also play a critical role in our skin's ability to hydrate itself as well as maintain the skin's protective lipid barrier.
The purpose of exfoliation is to help rid the skin of any build-up of excess dead skin cells which occurs as cell turnover slows and often occurs as we age.
When done properly, exfoliating can help . . .
Reduce the Appearance of Large Pores: Exfoliating helps remove dirt that clogs pores causing them to appear larger.
Improve Skin Texture: Exfoliating promotes cell renewal, allowing fresh, healthy skin cells to emerge.
Brighten Lackluster, Dull Skin: Exfoliation coupled with the gentle massage increases blood circulation bringing more oxygen and nutrients to the skin cells. Also, dead skin cells refract light unevenly which causes the skin to have a dull appearance.
Improve Absorption of Moisturizers: Layers of dead cells and dirt on the surface of the skin hinder the absorption of moisturizers.
Reduce the Signs of Aging: Despite the ads on the internet, exfoliation will not erase wrinkles, turn your aging epidermis into flawless skin, or make you look 10 years younger. But as we age, the natural 'glue' holding dead cells together thickens, causing uneven cell buildup, dry patches, and dull-looking skin.
Reduce Acne & Breakouts: Acne-prone skin often produces more dead skin cells than other skin types, but instead of sloughing off, the dead cells remain stuck on the surface of the skin. The combination of cellular debris and excess oil forms a blackhead and if bacteria invade an inflamed blemish will form.
Sugar scrubs can help acne breakouts in two ways.
- Physical: The physical "scrubbiness" of the sugar works to exfoliate the surface of the skin.
- Chemical: If you allow the scrub to remain on the skin for a few minutes, the chemical composition of the sugar's AHAs (Alpha hydroxy acids) can help break up acne-causing blockages.
Brighten Dull, Dry Winter Skin: Exfoliating is especially beneficial during winter. Dry winter air can cause a buildup of dead skin cells and exacerbate skin dryness. Also by removing the barrier of dead skin cells, exfoliation allows moisturizers to penetrate deeper into the skin, maximizing their hydrating effects.
Types of Exfoliants: Home Care Guide
Exfoliants can be broadly categorized into two types: physical and chemical.
Physical or Mechanical Exfoliants
Physical exfoliation uses textured tools or natural ingredients to remove dead skin cells. Examples include:
- Brushes, loofahs, sponges, or washcloths
- Natural semi-abrasive grainy items like scrubs, botanical powders, clays, salts, sugars, grains, or herbs
- Shaving removes the top layer of the dead skin cells along with hair
Chemical Exfoliants
Chemical or enzyme exfoliants help to dissolve or loosen the "glue" that holds dead cells on the skin's surface. Although commercial chemical exfoliants can be found over the counter at your local retail store, in this blog, I am focusing on naturally occurring Alpha-hydroxy Acids (AHAs) that are found in natural ingredients like fruits, milk, and plants.
Alpha-hydroxy acids are gentle acids derived from foods, such as sugar cane (glycolic acid), milk products (lactic acid), citrus fruits (citric acid), grapes (tartaric acid), and apples (malic acid). When applied to the skin, alpha-hydroxy acids help loosen the “glue” that holds the dead skin cells to the surface allowing old skin cells to be washed away more easily!
You likely have a treasure trove of natural exfoliants right in your kitchen, just waiting to be transformed into effective and nourishing scrubs.
Common AHAs used as natural exfoliators include:
Glycolic Acid: found naturally in sugar cane, it gives sugar its natural “chemical” exfoliating properties. Glycolic acid has a small molecular structure, allowing it to penetrate the skin more easily compared to other AHAs.
It gently exfoliates the top layer of skin by dissolving dead skin cells, promoting cell turnover, and revealing smoother, brighter skin.
Face and body sugar scrubs take advantage of both the mechanical and chemical exfoliating properties of sugar
Lactic Acid: Naturally found in dairy products, lactic acid is a gentle alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that makes it an excellent option for most skin types, including sensitive skin.
Unlike other AHAs, lactic acid is inherently gentle, allowing for effective exfoliation without irritation. Additionally, since lactic acid is naturally present in the skin, it helps maintain the skin's moisture barrier, providing hydration while exfoliating.
Buttermilk, yogurt, sour milk, and kefir are good sources of lactic acid.
Recipe: For a simple, gentle exfoliator, soak a cotton pad in kefir (or yogurt) and apply to your face for 15-20 minutes. Rinse with lukewarm water and pat dry.
Tartaric Acid: Found in unripe grapes. The Ancient Romans would exfoliate with grape skins. It loosens dead skin cells and be used on most skin types, including sensitive, dry, and oily
Recipe: Smash enough seedless grapes to make about 5 tablespoons of pulp and place in a clean bowl. Add one teaspoon of olive oil and one teaspoon of honey.
Massage using a circular motion, paying special attention to dry skin patches then rinse off with warm water.
Citric Acid: The highest level of naturally occurring citric acid is found in oranges and lemons. It helps to resurface the skin by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells and gently exfoliates removing dead skin cells, promoting cell turnover, and resulting in a smoother, brighter complexion.
Recipe: This scrub contains a variety of alpha-hydroxy acid ingredients: yogurt, lemon, and sugar.
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1/4 cup wheat bran
1 tablespoon honey
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Mix all ingredients. Wet your body in a warm shower and apply the scrub to your legs, arms, and torso. Massage gently into the skin with a circular motion, rinse well, and pat your skin dry.
Malic Acid: Malic acid is found in several fruits and vegetables, but is most associated with apples and cherries. It dissolves the glue between skin cells, removing dead skin cells and revealing new skin. Malic acid is a good option for people with sensitive skin because it is milder than other AHAs.
Recipe: Peel and chop one apple. Add 2 tablespoons of honey and 3 tablespoons of yogurt. Place all the ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Apply to the face using a gentle circular motion. Allow to sit for 15 minutes, rinse with lukewarm water and pat dry.
Just a note--you will often see honey included in skincare recipes including those for exfoliation. Raw honey is antibacterial, antiviral, and anti-fungal. It hydrates, reduces inflammation, and helps ease skin infections, like acne. Numerous studies have shown its effectiveness in promoting new skin growth and even lessening scarring.
How To Exfoliate
Understanding “why” we should exfoliate is just the beginning. Knowing how to exfoliate properly is crucial to avoid damaging your skin. With various methods and exfoliants available, it is essential to approach exfoliation with care.
The main thing is to go slow and gentle. Some people new to skincare tend to overexfoliate. Take time to see what actually works with your skin in its healthy state.
If you are using a new face or body scrub we recommend a patch test first, especially if you have sensitive skin.
Mechanical exfoliation can improve skin luster by removing dead skin cells and unclogging pores, which may help reduce acne.
Always begin with the softest textured tools or the finest grains pressing gently and scrubbing for only a few seconds.
The amount of pressure and the size of the granules used depends on the type of skin you are exfoliating. Different parts of the body need different kinds of attention and care. They can not all be scrubbed with a pumice stone.
Heels can tolerate aggressive scrubbing, while the upper arms, elbows, and legs like more moderate pressure.
Facial skin should be treated delicately, using very little pressure and small textured granules. Since facial skin may already be inflamed due to acne breakouts, NEVER use any facial scrub aggressively on blemished skin.
Simple exfoliation occurs every time you wash your face from the friction of rubbing your skin with your hands, washcloth, or gentle facial pad.
Exfoliating The Face
When experiencing breakouts, you may feel like you should vigorously scrub your face often to get your skin really clean. However, too frequent or vigorous scrubbing can increase irritation and redness, aggravate already inflamed skin, and exacerbate breakouts. You must learn to listen to your skin.
If you have inflammatory acne, especially if your breakouts are crusting, oozing, or open sores, avoid scrubs altogether. If you are unsure ask your health care provider.
Method
- Cleanse your face
- Use a gentle, circular motion to exfoliate skin
- Be gentle, especially around the eyes
- Rinse with lukewarm water
- Pat face dry
- Apply moisturizer
Tips
- A circular message with a clean, soft, damp washcloth or facial pad can help exfoliate the skin
- Small particle size is gentler on the skin, so use small grain sugars (cane or brown), clays, powdered herbs, and powdered grains
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Finely ground adzuki beans have been used by Japanese women for centuries in their skincare routines. They are not only a very effective and gentle exfoliant, but they also contain enzymes that are activated when mixed with water to help loosen the "glue" holding dead skin on the surface
- The sugars in facial sugar scrubs also act by both physical and chemical means
- Always use a light touch and a gentle circular motion to avoid irritating sensitive facial skin
- Avoid using scrubs that contain pulverized nut shells, fruit pits, and salts which can have sharp edges that can tear delicate facial skin
Exfoliating The Body
If you use a scrub apply the product gently to wet skin using small, circular motions. Do this for about 30 seconds. Then rinse off with lukewarm water. If you use a brush, sponge, or other accessory use short light strokes.
- You can use a clean, soft natural bristle brush, damp loofah, sea sponge, washcloth, buffing pad, or any bathing accessory like our scrubby Ayate Bath Scrubber.
- Soaps with scrubby ingredients like our Loofah Adzuki Soap, Coffee & Clove Scrubby Soap, or our very scrubby Loofah Pumice Foot Soap for those tougher skin areas.
- Moisturizing scrubs made with sugars or finely ground grains are great.
- No matter what mechanical exfoliation method you choose, remember you are not scrubbing your bathroom, you are exfoliating your skin.
- Most scrubs do what they need to do without excessive scrubbing.
- We do not recommend using ground nuts, hard seeds, shells, or pits. The rough jagged edges can cause micro-tears. These tiny invisible breaks in the skin's surface can cause redness, irritation, and pain.
- Most of us concentrate on exfoliating our face, legs, and arms, but don’t forget your hands and feet!
Exfoliating is part of a skin care routine. You should be cleansing before you exfoliate, and moisturizing afterward. Your skincare needs may change with the seasons and as you exfoliate more regularly.
How Often To Exfoliate
Exfoliating reveals a fresh layer of smoother cells, but this effect is temporary.
As our skin constantly produces new cells, old cells will always be ready to be sloughed away. The key question is: How often?
Every person's skin is unique, and what works for one person may not work for another. Get to know your skin instead of following some generic routine you read on social media. Most people are at a greater risk of over-exfoliating rather than under-exfoliating.
How often you should exfoliate depends on your age, the overall condition of your skin, and the type of exfoliant you are using. This may change over time or even from season to season.
Finding Your Frequency: Instead of focusing on how many times per week to exfoliate, assess your skin for dullness or flakiness and exfoliate only when needed.
- Start with a gentle approach
- Begin with once a week for the face and body
- Pay attention to how your skin reacts to exfoliation
- Adjust the frequency and type of exfoliant based on your skin's response
Although exfoliating may feel good too much exfoliation can damage the epidermis and lead to moisture loss, decreased barrier protection, increased sensitivity, and irritation. So do not overdo it!
If your skin becomes extra sensitive, red, tight, or unusually shiny, it is a likely sign that you are exfoliating too often or too aggressively. Remember, your skin needs its protective outer layer, and over-scrubbing can lead to inflamed, dehydrated skin. If you notice any of these symptoms, stop exfoliating until your skin returns to normal, then wait a few days before resuming your exfoliation routine.
Want help deciding if your skin needs exfoliating? Try this easy "tape test."
- Apply a small piece of clear tape to the area of concern (forehead, forearm, or leg)
- Gently rub the tape for 2-3 seconds
- Remove the tape and examine it
- If you see little pieces of flaky skin on the tape, it is likely time to exfoliate
Remember, the goal is to eliminate rough, dead skin cells and encourage cell regeneration without leaving the skin raw or irritated.
Does Everyone Need to Exfoliate?
The answer is no. While there are many good reasons to exfoliate the skin, it is not necessary for everyone. Skin naturally exfoliates itself, and for many, additional exfoliation can be damaging, especially if done too frequently or with harsh products.
Healthy skin does not usually require extra assistance with exfoliation. It is important to understand your skin type and whether you truly need help with cell turnover. Some people's skin naturally sheds at a perfect rate, and exfoliating might even disrupt this balance.
Beauty industry marketing perpetuates the idea that exfoliation is essential for achieving flawless skin. But this notion is rooted in the unrealistic expectation of eliminating all signs of aging reinforcing the idea that aging is undesirable and unattractive. Aging is a natural part of life!
The idea of sloughing away dead skin cells to reveal "more youthful skin underneath" taps into our deep-seated desires for rejuvenation. As a result, many people feel pressure to achieve an unattainable level of youthful perfection.
The psychological impact of all this "noise" should not be underestimated. Society tells us that beauty is perfection, so we must erase any trace of “imperfection” on our skin.
But the truth is, each of us is unique, our skin is unique, and it is okay to have imperfections. Ultimately, it is crucial to understand your skin's unique needs and adjust your skincare routine accordingly.
Important Notes About Exfoliating
When to exfoliate? According to some experts, the best time of day to exfoliate your skin is at night before bed. This allows skin to repair and regenerate while you sleep, making the most of the natural skin renewal process that happens overnight. However, the ideal time can vary depending on your skin type and personal preference.
The sensitive skin around the eyes is thin and delicate and should not be exfoliated.
For those with inflammatory skin conditions or highly sensitive, irritated, or blemished skin, be sure to ask the advice of your health care professional.
Do not use an exfoliant if you have open wounds, sunburn, or other skin irritation. Also, note that exfoliating can make you more prone to sunburn.
It is good practice to apply exfoliants to damp or wet skin to prevent irritation.
Wash your face before you exfoliate. The warm water helps open pores so they can be cleaned.
In the shower, wash before you exfoliate. Or use a product like our Citrus & Sugar Cleansing Scrub, an organic body scrub that exfoliates and cleanses at the same time!
Chagrin Valley face and body sugar scrubs are a moisturizing treat, blending nourishing oils and butters with a medley of fine and coarse grain sugars and honey. Depending on the type of exfoliation used, moisturizer may be needed. Remember, moisturizers hydrate best when dead cells have just been scrubbed away.
We advise against using exfoliating products that contain sharp nuts, shells, pits, or hard grains. They are generally considered too abrasive and can cause micro-tears on the skin, leading to irritation, redness, and potential damage to your skin barrier.
You should not exfoliate after shaving (especially with salt scrubs) and you should not apply makeup right after exfoliating.
We always recommend an allergy patch test before trying any new product. Especially if you have sensitive skin.
Exfoliating Products
There are many recipes available on the internet for creating your own facial and body scrubs at home. I have included a few recipes above.
When looking for exfoliating products keep it basic. Go for ingredients that are simple, natural, and straightforward.
Chagrin Valley sells products and accessories to help exfoliate your body, face, hands, and feet.
Please click here to read "Help Me Choose Natural Exfoliating Products."
Conclusion
While exfoliation is not for everyone, it can have numerous benefits for those who need it.
By removing dead skin cells, exfoliation can leave skin feeling smoother, looking vibrant and brighter, and even help with moisturizing by allowing products to penetrate deeper. Regular exfoliation can also help improve circulation and reduce breakouts by clearing clogged pores. Ultimately, exfoliation can help reveal healthier, more radiant skin.
The key is to understand your skin's unique needs and tailor your skincare routine accordingly. Whether you exfoliate or not, the most important thing is to give your skin what it needs to thrive.
This blog was originally published in April 2016 and has been updated.